Archive for June, 2009

Window Temperatures

June 24th, 2009 by Seldom

This post has a summary of the reasoning behind using triple pane windows for comfort in a relatively mild climate where you could possibly meet the passive house energy performance using a double pane window: House 2.0

Here are the numbers converted to imperial units for residents of the United States, Liberia, and Myanmar:

Outside air temp = 23
Inside air temp = 70

Inside temperature at window:

Single pane = 34
Double pane clear glass = 52
Double pane low-e glass = 61
Triple pane low-e glass = 64

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EcoDrain Wastewater Heat Exchanger

June 23rd, 2009 by Seldom

We have received City approval to install vertical GFX heat exchangers like the Power-pipe. They will recover 50% of the heat in the hot water used for a shower. The only problem is that they are 5 or 6 feet tall (there are shorter ones but they aren’t very efficient), and they have to be installed vertically. That means we can’t recover heat from a shower located on grade without pumping the drain water.

Today, my horizontal wastewater heat exchanger prayers seem to have been answered. EcoDrain claims their 30″ long horizontal heat exchanger will recover up to 40% of the energy in a shower. My first thought was “well, that’s going to clog immediately,” but EcoDrain thinks I should relax:

The contact area of the horizontal EcoDrain drain is coated with a very slippery environmentally friendly non-stick coating. This prevents anything from sticking to the device and makes it self cleaning. For further assurance, it is possible to purchase a hair cover for the drain which dramatically reduces the amount of hair that ends up in the drain.

A 4″ diameter vertical GFX heat exchanger can be installed on the main gray water drain leaving a house to recover heat from all showers, the washing machine, and dishwasher, but the EcoDrain is sized for a single shower at a time:

A single EcoDrain can be used for multiple showers provided the showers are rarely used simultaneously. There is a limit to the maximum flow on the supply side and also an optimal flow on the drain side. If multiple showers drain at the same time, there will be diminishing returns in terms of savings because the heat exchanger capacity may be exceeded resulting in some water just passing through the heat exchanger without transferring any heat.

That’s fine with me. Our clients should be washing clothes with cold water anyway, and the dishwasher doesn’t use a lot of hot water. The clothes washer and dishwasher are also non-coincident loads. They fill with hot water. They do their thing, and they drain later. You wouldn’t be recovering heat unless you happened to be running some water while one of them was draining. Showers are what we need to recover every time. The other fixtures are good to pick up if it’s not any trouble.

The horizontal EcoDrain fits in a box 30” long by 6” high by 2” wide. It is designed to fit between a p-trap and a main drain line under the floor of the shower.

The vertical EcoDrain is a tube of diameter 3” and length 30”.

Pressure drop is about 5 psi.

The larger GFX heat exchangers are probably the way to go if we have a basement because they’re more efficient, but EcoDrain will come in handy when we have a shower located in the basement.

EcoDrain.ca

:: Inhabitat

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Aerogel

June 23rd, 2009 by Seldom

Aerogel’s resistance to heat flow is about R-10 per inch. Polyurethane foam is about R-6/in, polystyrene is R-4.5/in, and fiberglass and cellulose are both about R-3.5/in.

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How to Make Sure Cellulose Insulation is Dense Packed

June 20th, 2009 by Seldom

Home Energy Magazine | The Dry-Pack Cellulose Alternative:

One of the key components of a successful dense pack installation is a powerful enough blower. Bill Hulstrunk, technical manager of National Fiber Cellulose, recommends a pressure of no less than 80 water column inches (80 inches WC, or 2.9 psi), measured at the blower outlet while blowing air and not material. These numbers seem to be appropriate, based on follow-up tests that Hulstrunk and I conducted with a calibrated cavity test box. Packing this test box of known weight and volume can reveal the net added weight of cellulose per cubic foot. Inspectors have yet to see a blowing machine that can reach 80 inches WC and can’t achieve a standard 3.5 lb of cellulose per cubic foot. The blowers that can’t generate the necessary pressure can’t pack the cellulose to the optimal density. Also, blowing equipment that blows with enough pressure to dense pack the cellulose is easier and faster to work with. The cavity fills quickly and to the proper density.

There are a number of reasons for the lackluster densities. They include

  1. old, undersized, or otherwise under performing blower motors;
  2. failure to maintain equipment, especially worn seals (when air can bypass worn seals, less pressure is available on the outlet side);
  3. inadequate power due to low voltage or small-gauge wire;
  4. a flawed air-material ratio (decreasing material feed and/or increasing blower air setting results in higher density); and
  5. poor installer technique—including withdrawing the wall tube too quickly or not using a wall tube at all.

Consistent dense-pack is a readily obtainable and worthy goal, but ongoing testing indicates that it doesn’t happen by accident. The following recommendations will greatly increase the likelihood of getting consistent dense-pack results:

  1. Use an infrared thermal imager for quality control inspection.
  2. Conduct equipment pressure-testing on a regular basis, supplemented by the appropriate ongoing maintenance program.
  3. Train field crews with a calibrated test box to ensure that they have the right air-material ratio and installation technique.

Improvements in cellulose manufacture, advances in blowing equipment, and access to infrared cameras are moving the weatherization industry in a positive direction. For years we had to endure stories from homeowners who had remodeled their bathroom, only to find that their blown-in insulation had “settled.” This led to the notion that cellulose settles more and more as time goes on. We now know that much of this cellulose was never dense-packed to begin with, and much of the “settling” had already taken place before the contractor’s truck pulled out of the driveway. Fortunately, we now know how to avoid it.

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Pure Wood

June 4th, 2009 by Seldom

Instead of treating wood with arsenic, Bay Tree Technologies heat treats it. Bay Tree is located in Memphis, but their first kiln is in Terra Haute, Indiana. Right now they’re only making 1.25″x5″ decking. They say the process reduces expansion/contraction by 80%.

From EBN:

In a multistep process lasting 50–60 hours, Bay Tree first heats lumber to about 210°F (100°C) for preconditioning and drying. A second stage of heating boosts the temperature to between 370°F and 480°F (190°C–250°C), which chemically transforms sugars in the wood into forms that cannot be digested by insects or eaten by decay organisms. Then steam conditioning restores some moisture to the wood. By comparison, conventional lumber kilns operate at about 165°F (74°C)…

All PureWood boards are suitable for outdoor above ground and ground- contact applications and carry a 25-year warranty—even in ground-contact. The product can be painted, stained, and sanded just like conventional wood…

PureWood is fairly expensive, likely because of the high energy costs involved. Bay Tree Technologies is positioning PureWood as a high-end decking product, similar in price to the “tropical” composite products, such as Trex Brasilia and TimberTech Earthwood, or to clear redwood, according to Long. This price is significantly higher than that of conventional copper-treated decking. Long says that costs may come down somewhat with competition (as other thermally modified wood products enter the market), but he doesn’t think it will ever be cost-competitive with chemically infused wood.

Dealers in our area:

Mountain Lumber Company of Boone-Banner Elk, Inc.
9877 Hwy 105 South
Boone, NC 28607
828-963-7524

Wilson Lumber
Old Hwy 64
Murphy, NC 28906
828-837-7919

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Efficient Cooking

June 1st, 2009 by Seldom

From Wikipedia:

There are three places in the cooking process where fuel can be conserved; the fuel, the stove, and the cooking pot. The greatest gains come not from the stove itself, but from how the heat the stove produces is used; paying attention to the pot rather than the stove results in the greatest fuel savings. In fact, fuel efficiency in a stove is usually much more affected by heat transfer to the pot than it is by improving combustion efficiency.

* The first way to reduce the amount of fuel a family consumes is simply to use a cooking lid while cooking, which by itself reduces fuel consumption by 40%. This simple change will normally save more fuel by itself than switching to an improved stove.

* The second strategy is similar to the first; use a larger cooking pot. Larger pots are more energy efficient than smaller ones and wide shallow pots are more efficient than tall narrow ones.

* Last, when cooking for a family, switching from a stove that has room for only one pot to cook at a time, to a stove where two or more pots can cook at once will often raise efficiencies by up to 40%.

Also, see this earlier entry about more efficient pots and pans.

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